For me in that price range it has always been:
Zortrax M200 = Minimum fiddling, limited to (high quality) proprietary filament, great print quality
Ultimaker 2+ = Requires fiddling, can use almost all filaments with the right settings and set up, great print quality
Cheers
I would recommend you an Ultimaker 2+. As a user with +4000 hours with an Ultimaker 2 and +1000 after upgrading to an Ultimaker 2+, I would really recommend it to you (the 2+ version!). Of course there are more printers on the market, but so far, for prototyping, the Ultimaker 2+ (normal or extended) has done a great job in my opinion.
I donāt exactly know what you need or want, but the top features I would need are:
- Heated bed
- Interchangeable nozzles (the Ultimaker 2+ comes with 4 different nozzles sizes)
- Possibility to use any material (I love playing with exotic filaments)
- Reliable and easy to use (the new features implemented in the Ultimaker 2+ made it +1000000% more reliable)
- Good community and support behind the product (there are a lot of geeks in the community solving problems all day, just like me)
Of course there are more printers you should check, and this is a limited point of view from someone that has had a lot of DIY 3D printers and then an Ultimaker 2+. Iād say the big ones here would be Zortrax and Ultimaker, and both have a very good printing quality.
Ultimaker is a bit cheaper, I think it is one of the best, also Lulzbot!!!
The BCN3D Sigma is a good option. What we like is the easy access to the build plate. Itās not as noisy as you would think, Iām sure they changed the fan in the psu at some point.
Just for saying, I do not own a Zortrax, I have two rep rap printers ( bigger dimensions than any FDM metioned here), but the quality of parts printed by a zortrax (specifically M-200 and M-300) is by far the best IĀ“ve ever seen in a FDM printer.
I can print bigger parts, lets say much bigger parts, I can use many and cheaper materials, but the fact is that I can not print with the same quality as a Zortrax can do.
I know that ultimaker 2+ is not able to print flexible materials for example and that doesnĀ“t mean it doesnĀ“t worth to buy one.
But taking in mind to make affordable, quick and accurate prototypes, I think that the Zortrax M series is beyond any other FDM printer for less than 2500$. ThatĀ“s my opinion and IĀ“ve tried a lot of printers during last four years.
Regards,
Antonio
Sorry to debunk your argument but I succesfully printed NinjaFlex on a Ultimaker 2+, not a problem at all.
IĀ“m happy to hear that 
Many users reported a lot of troubles when try to print flexible filaments. Are they upgraded its former extruder?
āUltimaker 2+ not able to print flexible materialsā
Complete nonsenseā¦ 520 threads on our community forum regarding advice on how to print with every single (non-proprietary) flexible material ever invented begs to differā¦ if you are going to give advice make sure itās correct before posting here please.
The Sigma looks to be a great optionā¦ maybe even the best! Good price tooā¦ why pay more if you donāt have to. Your prints are stunning tooā¦ thanks for posting.
Raise3d.com i have the N2. For $2,500 the best FTM printer you can buy is the M2 in my opinion I have been using it for 8 months and I have paid off the full printer price on 3D hubs I get excellent quality it goes up to 10 microns if you like to take forever. The machine is built very very strong and heavy for commercial application it even looks like a commercial machine is not a toy. Or you can get yourself one of those that everybody likes to build but I donāt know about 10 microns accuracy with a Delta Iām sure that there are easy to make in a large size butt youāre still messing with machine that is mostly open source and people are just putting their own name on it. These even have LCD screens that display everything you need to know including the actual model just look it up and do some research and youāll see that the features included in this printer blow over all these other printers that people are talking about sorry for any missed typos Iām using voice type on my phone
What really irritates me about threads like these is that too many people post with hidden agendas rather than just offering experiential adviceā¦ you end up with a whole host of nonsense written by people who want to either sell you something or simply justify their own glaring consumer mistakes.
Why anyone would buy a 3D printer from a company who wants to ālockā you in to their proprietary materialās is very stupid in my opinionā¦ if we allow them to do this they willā¦ just as they did with ink cartridges in the pastā¦ anyone not recognizing that āold conā is a fool and then passing on advice to someone else to do the same is irresponsible in the extreme. If we reject āclosedā and restrictive trading practices within 3D printing then machine makers will not be able to sell their āconsumer consāā¦ please think before you post whilst also rejecting restrictive practices in 3D printing please. This is a community forum first.
For the genuine posters here no offence intendedā¦ for the other idiotsā¦ nob off!
Hopefully we have at least given you some choices to research yourself wm1059ā¦ much luck and light from me.
āunfollowedā
I second avoiding printers with proprietary filament/cartridges. It severely limits your material choices, it allows suppliers to price gouge, if they are as successful as Sony in proprietary formats, then youāll be left with a $2500 paper weight. My recommendation is not to support companies/printers like this. Gillette has it right, as the risk in the capital outlay versus the consumables aspect is balanced in cost, the 3D printer world doesnāt make sense. I donāt even use HP printers because of their Inkjet cartridges and ridulous prices and short life of the cartridges.
āWhy anyone would buy a printer that locks you into their filamentā
answer- for Zortrax you would but their printer because you need a printer that puts out consistent prints with minimum need for maintenance. I would take proprietary filament with consistent high quality results over open source and requiring more work and fine tuning any day.
This is for my needs. I need high output with minimal worrying.
Also with Zortrax you can use other brand filaments it just voids he 1 year warrenty. Not that big of a deal.
Thats one good looking delta printer! Thinking of getting one! Are you a distributor or are you with the manufacturer?
Mostly of them are not referred to UM 2+, so youĀ“re not arguing in any way 
I do not expect tricks like adding sewing machine oil to the ptfe as a solution for a printer that costs 2500$ā¦
Read this comment, there are a lot of them referred to this problem
I have a spool of filaflex here but I canāt even manage to get it up to the printhead without the feeder losing grip on it.
I can get it about 2 3rds though the bowden tube before it stops. Iāve tried tightening the skrew on the feeder so it exerts more pressure but to no avail.
So beware, it doesnāt always work and at this point Iām not really comfortable yet in modifying my um2+
Layer One is the manufacturer. If you have any questions please feel free to contact us directly. Thanks!
Iām not aware of any changes to the extruder, but I think the improved reliability has everything to do with the new geared feeder.
The only flexible material I tested was NinjaFlex, I donāt have any experience with Filaflex, maybe thatās softer/more flexible?
Ultimaker 2+ does print flexible filaments, so I have no idea where you got that impression. Additionally, the prints are spectacular. I have seen, and heard the rave reviews for the Zortrax 200, and it does look like a great printer, but as everyone says it is limited when it comes to choices of filamentsā¦ That being said, Iām also a big believer that the slicing settings are just as important as the printer itself.
Oh wow you guys are talking about ultimaker printers??? They donāt even have a full enclosure Iām pulling out of this chat I thought it was more serious and it was for like a commercial printer but you guys are now everybody is just recommending the printer that they have. Look up something more commercial and stop buying these name brand toys that are way overpriced.
For 2500 you get a raise3d N2 with up to 10micron accuracy. Fully enclosed and even has an LED touchscreen 7 inches that displays the model you are printing and shows all the data on how long and how tall the print is
